TIW: “Bold” and “underlined” are stylistic touches added to typefaces, indicating emphasis. What kind of woman do you envision wearing Bold_Underlined? And how do you hope her life is affected by your pieces?
Chloe: Yeah! That is where I got the label idea from. Such stylistic texts are hard to miss.
These are women who chart their own paths - women who know themselves, are certain of what they want, and never apologise for it. I imagine my pieces as extensions of these women, speaking to their values, qualities, as well as to their quirks. These are beautifully designed and intentional pieces that accommodate their lifestyle.
TIW: Bold_Underlined is a boutique brand, and its collections aren’t released on a set schedule or according to seasons. What prompts you to release a new collection? And do you ever worry that you will be overlooked or forgotten by the consumers who are swayed by “hype” or constantly awaiting the next “new thing?”
Chloe: Yes, releases are set outside the fashion “calendar.” I’m aiming at a maximum of two condensed, timeless collections per year. Not only is this practical for a boutique brand like ours, it goes against the conventional model that perpetuates overproduction and waste.
And, no, I do not have that FOMO and refuse to be caught up in it. I trust my process and journey.
TIW: Your decision to adapt a pre-order system, as to eliminate waste and leftovers, is certainly applaudable. Describe the role that sustainability plays in your brand.
Chloe: Well, I try my best to really think through every stage of my process and find ways to do things with intent - think of the shelf life and the after-use of the pieces I create. Having a pre-order system not only ensures that we have no excess products leftover, it encourages conscious and thoughtful buying, both on our side and that of the consumer. There is so much clothing waste in the world because of fast fashion. I think it is awful to know this and still produce the conventional way.
Our good friends at The OR Foundation (@theorispresent) have more stats and insights regarding the amount of clothing waste that comes into Accra from the Global North. Readers can learn a thing or two on the impact of fast fashion waste on disadvantaged communities, as well as local ecosystems.
TIW: Walk us through your creative process. What transpires before a piece of clothing or collection is ready to wear?
Chloe: It is a slow and intentional process - a lot of brainstorming and research, mapping out concepts, deconstruction and development, sketches and experimentation, illustrations, sampling, and construction. There is a lot of back and forth that happens during the creative process to fine-tune and get the desired product.
Courtesy of Chloe AsaamIdeation from Chloe’s sketchbook, which went on to become the “Non-Basic” blouse and the “Wellness Kimono” of her capsule
Courtesy of Chloe Asaam Left to right: illustration of final pieces - “Non-Basic” blouse and “Iris” skirt, “Wellness Kimono,” “Ketewa” dress
TIW: In recent years, Ghana has gained recognition for its many skilled artisans, and Accra is increasingly turning into an economic hub. What is your relationship with Accra’s craftspeople, and do you locally source all of your materials?
Chloe: Yes, Accra’s fashion ecosystem has a lot of creative artisans who support and add value to small brands like ours. Of course, I source fabrics and materials from Makola, Accra’s market centre.
TIW: As the creative lead of a developing brand, are you managing everything from design to production to sales, or are you working with a team?
Chloe: The label is fairly new, and, at the moment, it's just me and a couple of creative friends and contacts making it happen. Though I have plans to grow, I want to keep it as intimate and community-based as possible.
TIW: Do you mind sharing a little about your upbringing and the cultural influences that can be found in your work?
Chloe: My Asante roots come up in my work, more so now, as I grow in my craft. I find myself tapping into the matriarchal energies in my culture, be it abstract or otherwise.
TIW: Besides fashion, what mediums do you draw inspiration from? Is there a particular time, place, or thing that makes you feel the most creative?
Chloe: I draw [inspiration] from visuals like animation, art, sculpture, colour aesthetics, photography… could be anything. It comes naturally most times. Lately, I’ve been obsessing over a lot of minimal aesthetics and Celine (Phoebe Philo’s era). I think I have gone through hundreds of images and read a handful of material since mid-December of 2020. But I haven’t attempted creating yet. I’m allowing it to percolate.
TIW: Did the COVID-19 pandemic have a major impact on your business or the local economy, in general? If so, how are you adjusting through this globally tumultuous time?
Chloe: Actually, I sort of launched the label and its first official collection simultaneously during the start of lockdown here in Accra. I tapped into the fact that everyone was connecting virtually. We shared the design process, challenges, and insights to create a capsule collection from start to finish. You can see this on Bold_Underline’s Instagram page (@bold_underlined).
TIW: Going forward, what is your vision for Bold_Underlined? Do you have plans to expand more internationally, or are you focused on local development for now?
Chloe: I’m focusing on positioning myself locally and catering to women here who share in our values and connect with our ethos. It’s really about building a close-knit community around Bold_Underlined.
Editor’s Note: At The Int’l Whisperer, we do our best to maintain the original integrity of our content. Interviews are edited for clarity only. While many of our subjects are interviewed outside of their native language or use their own local variant of a particular language, we recognize this as authenticity and refrain from “standardizing” their original expressions, syntax, or spelling.